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Pontocho Kyoto - Where does the name come from?

2021.08.16

Whenever I have visitors from abroad and we are in Kyoto, I invariably take them to Pontocho in the evening. I love that this alley is narrow enough to easily cross from side to side. The proximity of the facades lining the street lets me inspect the displays and menus of every restaurant on my left and right. By now I have done this tens of times, and even though not much changes, I do not tire of it. I find it a great place to spend time with a friend.

 

Since I have been going to Pontocho for over 10 years, I have gradually learned some of its history, not all of which I believe.

 

The history of Pontocho that I find hardest to accept concerns the supposed origin of its name. If you google “Pontocho history”, Wikipedia and most travel websites will tell you that “Ponto” is thought to be derived from a Portuguese word, most likely “bridge” but perhaps “destination” or even “dot”. While this could be true, it seems unlikely.

 

To begin with, when Japanese borrows words from abroad it is usually for something that originally did not exist in Japan, like computers or pumpkins, but Japanese has long had its own words for “bridges”, “destinations”, and “dots”. Why the need for a foreign alternative, especially during that era? The timing is important.

 

When Pontocho was created in 1670, Japan was already 31 years into what would become its 214-year stretch of self-isolation. Would a culture that is in the midst of turning inward really choose a foreign word for a new street? Also, how many Kyoto denizens from the 17th century knew Portuguese well enough to linguistically borrow from it?

 

Finally, there is the kanji itself, 先斗町, which using my Heisig language book translates to something like “The town () before () the Big Dipper () ”, which seems to have little to do with a bridge, although I guess “destination” would still be valid.

 

Even if we eliminate its supposed Portuguese origin, Pontocho is still a charming name. Using the Big Dipper (Ursa Major) as a proxy for North, a translation for Pontocho could be “The town just before the North end”. As Pontocho does lie at the Northern terminus to the 15-kilometer-long Takasegawa Canal, this is in fact true.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo Credit: satoshi-hirayama @pexels.com

 

 

 

Blog Quiz

Q1. What does the author find hard to accept?

Q2. Why does he find this hard to accept?

Q3. Why is it appropriate for Pontocho to have a character for “North” in its name?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scroll down ↓ for the answers to the quiz.

 

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

Quiz Answers

Q1. That the name “Pontocho” was derived from Portuguese.

Q2. Because of Japan’s isolation at that time, the likely small number of Portuguese speakers, and the lack of a need to borrow a word.

Q3. Because it is at the Northern end of a famous canal.

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